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Sunday, September 4, 2011

9.4.2011 Spitting Barrels Titillate, High Tide and Current Frustrate at South Wisconsin

This morning I got up to Oceanside at about 7.  I had checked the buoys and they made it look like the waves had died off a bit, so I thought it would be less walled than yesterday.  As I was parked at Wisconsin Street.  I saw a guy get a clean barrel and make it out.  I was on it!

While suiting up, I saw the same guy get two more.  I started frothing a bit and got down there.  I saw a double-up in the shorebreak and in my haste, I ran to do a skim-paddle takeoff and smashed my heel against a cobblestone. OUCH! While paddling, I noticed a rip developing right in Barrel Alley and my chances for a dry barrel drying up with it. I dry-haired it and caught my first wave within about eight minutes of parking myself up there. 

It was a nice wave and I probably could've gotten barreled on it had I stalled upon takeoff.  I had some speed going and I began to lay into a roundhouse and noticed a chop.  I waited it out and then put all my pressure on my backside rail, pivoted and hit the whitewash smoothly.  Not a reo roundhouse, but a roundhouse nonetheless, SUCCESS!

Unfortunately, this was the only wave I would catch that is worth writing about.  I spent the rest of the session drifting towards the pier and then getting caught in a rip.  By the time I noticed, I was two-thirds of the pier out to sea!  I paddled and paddled and made it back, but the tide was making the waves so fat...!

No question about, tomorrow I will be on it earlier and stalling for those barrels.

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