I was still on a slight buzz from the previous day's sesh and was looking to double down before the swell breathed its last gasp. Future scholars and surf blog curators may argue this is what blinded me towards the conditions and convinced me to paddle out after seeing only closeouts.
Of the five or six waves I caught, I think I got one pump in. I stayed out just under an hour and then bailed. I sulked home.
Of the five or six waves I caught, I think I got one pump in. I stayed out just under an hour and then bailed. I sulked home.
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