My first glimpse had me nearly rubbing my eyes in disbelief. Corduroy lines coming down, breaking shiftily, but well. I was stopped by an older guy who asked me if he should take pics from the sand or from the pier. Given that there weren't any peaks visible breaking into the pier, I told him the sand. He told me about starting out in his photography hobby and how he focuses on the boards instead of the surfers. He said he was going to go to the pier.
I told him the break going into the pier wasn't really working, at least on the south side. Plus, elevation tends to pinch the wave and kill a lot of the curves/beauty of each wave. He changed his mind and set up near the playground.
I went south a ways where I saw the least amount of heads and consistent waves.
Just as soon as I'd perched, I caught my first wave. It was a left that was a little fat. I got a slow hit on it that threw an ok amount of spray, then a slightly better one. I kicked out and was electrified with the potential of this session.
I got a right and did a pretty nice smack, but the wave fattened up a bit given the rising tide and I couldn't do much more than lamely roundhouse cutty into the foam. I had so little speed left that I went for as hard a smack as I could. The whole experience left me emasculated.
A lot of paddling and shifting later, and I was left with no other memorable waves.
I told him the break going into the pier wasn't really working, at least on the south side. Plus, elevation tends to pinch the wave and kill a lot of the curves/beauty of each wave. He changed his mind and set up near the playground.
I went south a ways where I saw the least amount of heads and consistent waves.
Just as soon as I'd perched, I caught my first wave. It was a left that was a little fat. I got a slow hit on it that threw an ok amount of spray, then a slightly better one. I kicked out and was electrified with the potential of this session.
I got a right and did a pretty nice smack, but the wave fattened up a bit given the rising tide and I couldn't do much more than lamely roundhouse cutty into the foam. I had so little speed left that I went for as hard a smack as I could. The whole experience left me emasculated.
A lot of paddling and shifting later, and I was left with no other memorable waves.
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