I was on limited time today because of the baby's six-month appointment. I shredded up the asphalt on the beach cruiser. Wisconsin? No Time! Tyson? No Time! Harbor? HAVE YOU NOT BEEN LISTENING?!?!
My mind had been made up as to where I would surf. The surf was small and the tide low-ish. Pier is usually a little bigger than its neighboring spots and the shape is a little steeper, but the head count reflects that, which is why I normally don't surf there.
I paddled out and caught my first four waves in my twelve minutes since hitting the water, including paddle-out time.
My first wave was a chest-high right. I got really excited about the size and line of it and I wound up extra tight on my bottom turn. The lip came faster than I expected it, so I was a little off-balance on the snap. I descended awkwardly, then rose for another hit and that's when the combination of bad body positioning and wave fatness ended my journey.
I paddled back out and immediately caught a left. It let me in easily, but I bobbled a bit after pumping into the foam too hard. I recovered, then swung around the next section to decisively bash the lip and come down with speed. Too bad the wave had closed out after that...
Three heads joined me and I was thrilled they weren't chasing every wave they possibly could
I caught a right and after an initial steep section, it fattened up and allowed me little more than a flat canvas on which to throw "Vanity Spray" ®
I caught other, forgettable waves then went in so as not to irk my wife.
My mind had been made up as to where I would surf. The surf was small and the tide low-ish. Pier is usually a little bigger than its neighboring spots and the shape is a little steeper, but the head count reflects that, which is why I normally don't surf there.
I paddled out and caught my first four waves in my twelve minutes since hitting the water, including paddle-out time.
My first wave was a chest-high right. I got really excited about the size and line of it and I wound up extra tight on my bottom turn. The lip came faster than I expected it, so I was a little off-balance on the snap. I descended awkwardly, then rose for another hit and that's when the combination of bad body positioning and wave fatness ended my journey.
I paddled back out and immediately caught a left. It let me in easily, but I bobbled a bit after pumping into the foam too hard. I recovered, then swung around the next section to decisively bash the lip and come down with speed. Too bad the wave had closed out after that...
Three heads joined me and I was thrilled they weren't chasing every wave they possibly could
I caught a right and after an initial steep section, it fattened up and allowed me little more than a flat canvas on which to throw "Vanity Spray" ®
I caught other, forgettable waves then went in so as not to irk my wife.
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