I had high hopes for today. A lunchtime stroll on the pier with my dad and stepmom revealed juicy waves that were still appetizing even with onshore wind mucking them up. I vowed to surf at my next chance.
I got on it a bit late as I had intermittent baby watch duty, but my toes hit the water at about seven. There were some heads out, but it's a Sunday, so that was expected. It was less crowded than what I thought the ocean would have in store.
I duckdove and upon surfacing, felt the afterburn of an ice cream headache. Another wave came, and the cumulative effect of another dousing in the water, followed by my forehead's exposure to air, reached its apex and I bared my teeth in a grimace.
My first wave took me about fifteen minutes to find, but it was a lined-up left. I dropped down and picked up speed. I picked my target on the face of the wave, but was too casual and lazily/awkwardly came back down. Luckily, the wave steepened up and I got another chance, which I promptly blew by sliding the tail out WAY too far off-the-lip and bailing. It's difficult to make two opposite mistakes on the same wave, but I have the talent!
I had another left on which I got some speed, but kept it casual so as to save some sort of semblance of style. I had a mini-ramp approaching, so I did a half-pump down then sprang up, slammed my back foot while raising my front foot, and felt the sweet release of my fins as I "launched" into an air. I didn't rotate my hips enough and fell.
On a right, I did a top turn with a lot of speed and was taking out my frustration on a too-fat wave by overtorquing. My front foot slid off the deck of my board and I banged my shin on it. It didn't hurt too much, but it was definitely a first for me.
I caught a double-up left and went for a bottom turn, quickly realizing the barrel was slow and beautiful. I was close enough to stick my arm into the barrel, but couldn't post up in it as I was j u s t out of position for it.
After about an hour the tide was too low and the vast majority of waves became closeouts. I bailed.
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