The waves on offer were less than incredible as I cruised from South Mavs to Pier and then continued north. Given the low tide, I planned on riding my bike on the beach, but the Army Corps of Engineers had cordoned off the area. There was major sand dredging going on, and a creek had formed to take this sand to the ocean, creating quite possibly the freshest sandbar I've ever surfed in the States.
I oohed and ahhed over the hollow, pretty much unmakeable, barrels on the inside. When I saw a set break a little farther out, I was convinced this is where I would surf.
The paddle-out took less than a minute, and I was sitting in the middle of about eight dudes. I was absolutely giddy and steadied myself: "Play it cool and you'll have your best Cali barrel today".
As good as the waves had looked, no one was catching anything great. I saw several dudes eat it hard on these steep drops, no doubt coming out gargling sand.
A guy about twenty yards south of me caught the wave of the day, but like a fool he raced the wave and ended up passing up what would have gone on his highlight reel. I call him a fool because he caught the wave and I didn't. I would have loved the opportunity to blow that wave.
I had a few steep drops but nothing materialized for me in the barrel department, save for a left. I caught it late and it had a rip going across it, plus foam from the previous wave. I descended it and pumped and it just closed down, slamming me in the chest and chucking me in the churning liquid sand soup. I put my arm out and deflected what would have been my head hitting the sand softly.
As I exited the water, I noticed the NSSA contest scaffolding was up at Harbor, which explained why the crowds were so focused on this spot.
I oohed and ahhed over the hollow, pretty much unmakeable, barrels on the inside. When I saw a set break a little farther out, I was convinced this is where I would surf.
The paddle-out took less than a minute, and I was sitting in the middle of about eight dudes. I was absolutely giddy and steadied myself: "Play it cool and you'll have your best Cali barrel today".
As good as the waves had looked, no one was catching anything great. I saw several dudes eat it hard on these steep drops, no doubt coming out gargling sand.
A guy about twenty yards south of me caught the wave of the day, but like a fool he raced the wave and ended up passing up what would have gone on his highlight reel. I call him a fool because he caught the wave and I didn't. I would have loved the opportunity to blow that wave.
I had a few steep drops but nothing materialized for me in the barrel department, save for a left. I caught it late and it had a rip going across it, plus foam from the previous wave. I descended it and pumped and it just closed down, slamming me in the chest and chucking me in the churning liquid sand soup. I put my arm out and deflected what would have been my head hitting the sand softly.
As I exited the water, I noticed the NSSA contest scaffolding was up at Harbor, which explained why the crowds were so focused on this spot.
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