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Sunday, July 8, 2012

7.7.12 La Bocanita on a Pushing Tide w/ Pando and Mac

We sat at the hotel patio taking in the waves when we realized there were some workable peaks at La Bocanita.  Pando was ready to go and coaxed Mac and me to go with him with his enthusiasm.  The waves looked fun, but only when they weren't too jumbled and/or choppy.  It appeared you'd have to let a big one go through and the froth from that one would smoothe the surface down for the next wave

We paddled out and sat.  About five minutes later, I caught a quickly steepening right which scared me with the speed at which it jacked up.  I made it through the steep froth section, then bottom turned and I threw my weight onto the back of my board.  I recovered, then went for another hit.  It was weaker than I would have liked, and I ended up out the back.

A left came and I descended.  I bottom turned and rose up to hit it but the wall was missing.  I snapped anyway and threw a little spray, but there was nothing to bounce off to go back down.

My third and final wave was a right.  It closed out and I straightened out.  I decided not to paddle back out as it wasn't worth my being out in the 2 o'clock sun.  I will save the cancer risk for when it's worth it!

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