La Bocana was looking downright tasty from my cliffside pearch.
I decided to have a go at it, even though my headache was still affecting me.
I caught an overhead left with a steep drop. My La Bocanita training was paying off as I kept all my speed and even the vast majority of my weight on my front foot. I bottom turned, then pumped as it got racier. The wave then slowed WAY down and my pumping tempo matched it. The right was coming towards me and I hit it really well, sliding the fins out the back. I felt my board and legs pick up a ton of speed off the oncoming lip, but my upper body wasn't in the right position to accommodate this jolt of acceleration and I splayed onto my back.
I caught a similar wave, though this one I didn't have to pump on. I smacked the end section but left my board behind the wave while I flapped lifelessly onto the lip. Whoops!
A nice right came and took me with it. The drop was nice and fast and I swooped down and smacked it. I recovered and went up the face, compressing into a cutback. I dug my rail a bit, but lost hold of my fins in the wash.
I was getting slapped around by the clean-up sets and decided I'd had enough sun, rib cage friction and trauma for the day.
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