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Monday, July 2, 2012

7.1.12 WHAT!?! A Three-Session Day?! Building La Bocana

La Bocana was looking downright tasty from my cliffside pearch.

I decided to have a go at it, even though my headache was still affecting me.

I caught an overhead left with a steep drop.  My La Bocanita training was paying off as I kept all my speed and even the vast majority of my weight on my front foot.  I bottom turned, then pumped as it got racier.  The wave then slowed WAY down and my pumping tempo matched it.  The right was coming towards me and I hit it really well, sliding the fins out the back.  I felt my board and legs pick up a ton of speed off the oncoming lip, but my upper body wasn't in the right position to accommodate this jolt of acceleration and I splayed onto my back.

I caught a similar wave, though this one I didn't have to pump on.  I smacked the end section but left my board behind the wave while I flapped lifelessly onto the lip.  Whoops!

A nice right came and took me with it.  The drop was nice and fast and I swooped down and smacked it.  I recovered and went up the face, compressing into a cutback.  I dug my rail a bit, but lost hold of my fins in the wash.

I was getting slapped around by the clean-up sets and decided I'd had enough sun, rib cage friction and trauma for the day. 

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