We woke up at first light and got out thar.
We paddled straight to the point, and there were two guys already on it.
On my first wave, I popped up and saw the first section about to barrel. I crab-grabbed into oblivion and watched as it sectioned me off.
I caught an ok wave, turned, then went for a backside cutty when I remembered THE ROCKS!
I jumped off my board over the wave mid-cutty and proceeded to be dragged inside with my board behind me, closer to the rocks. I yanked on my leash and did what I could to keep away from the rocks, or at least slow me down to lessen the impact. I hopped back on my board, thankful to not hear that dreadful "CLUNK!". I looked back and I was within six feet of it. PHEW!
I saw a set break in the next bay over which looked delicious and signaled to Chamba to watch. I asked if he wanted to paddle with me and he replied affirmatively.
We sat at the break in the middle of the bay named Vaca (Cow). The peak at the far end of the bay is called Toro (Bull). I caught a slow but fun left, b-turned but had no real wall to turn off, so I half-heartedly snapped unsuccessfully.
I was edging closer to Chamba and Toro, and about ten minutes later, the wave of the Las Flores trip came. I caught it at the right time and pumped aggressively, turned and threw a huge plume of spray. AAAHHHH! The wave sectioned off and I tried to get around it, but it was not to be.
Another half-hour passed and no waves came. We watched as the twenty heads fought over the relative crumbs and decided to pack it in.
I can't remember the last wave I caught ergo it wasn't memorable and likely not worth writing about any way.
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