My cousin Tom flew in yesterday and we made plans to have him come down and meet us in front of Bob Rotherham's at 5. He had to cancel as his friend's dad was ambushed and shot. He spent the majority of the night at the hospital with them. I guess that's an ok excuse...!
We walked out to the point, and I took my best guess as to walk out at such a low tide. I didn't guess all that well, as Chamba walked way past me after I'd begun my paddle-out. Apparently, the move is to walk out where you line-up with the first peak on the outside. I made it out with an unpleasant gash on the inside of my foot (Mike, you would've HATED it!).
Aaron had guessed there'd be four guys on it, I guessed three and I NAILED it! Being a little more used to the rock dance than Aaron, I beat him out there by a good four minutes and was poised to set up deep, considering the tide.
Before I could perch, a wave came with no one on it. I put my weight on the back of my board, pivoted, and paddled hard. I caught it and quickly b-turned, smacked it, swooped down very quickly and smacked it again. Unfortunately on the second smack I did something wrong. My best guess is not enough weight on the front foot.
More and more pros began rolling out of bed and filing out.
My second wave was a racy right that I pumped and did one turn on, then kicked out.
A good-sized right came and there was no one on it. I was a bit deep for it and was paddling hard. I popped up, in danger of either fading off the back or going over the falls. I stomped down on my front foot and it slid forward a tad. I was able to recover though, and began pumping hard. I saw Chamba on my inside and went around him. I never was able to catch up to this beast. I dove laterally into the foam, hoping to minimize my chances of a bloody encounter with the various dry barnacled rocks.
Punta Roca was reaching its saturation point. I was having trouble catching waves as there was always someone on them. The outside take-off spot was working about half the time, the other half it was folding over about fifteen yards inside, sectioning off.
Aaron was in a good spot for a great one, but he got back-paddled by a guy whose name I won't mention. He's a local and has, according to Chamba, had five or six attempts on his life for his misdeeds. The most notable one I heard about was dropping in on the former President's son. Yes, you can get shot at here for snaking the wrong person!
I caught one last wave and it sectioned off on me. I fly-awayed over the lip. Aaron said he was ready to go in. I went in, but he hung out for ten minutes. I was hoping to see Curren or Lopez catch a wave but I didn't see them. Aaron said he saw one from each and Curren was on his game more than Shea.
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