Aaron came in last night and they lost his bag. He landed here at 8:05 and we left the airport at 10. Forty minutes later, we were at the hotel. I showed him around and let him see the board he'd be riding, thanks to Chamba's bro deal on the rental. I ended up in the shower to cool off for the night ahead at 11:30 and passing out, despite how tired I was, right around midnight.
I didn't get a chance to eat dinner but was up and ready to go at 5:30. We had to walk the long way around, as our hotel hadn't yet unlocked the gates to the water.
We paddled out and my arms were aching from the previous day's three-banger. Just as I was about to perch, I got my first hunger pang. I caught a left, but try as I might I could not catch up with it. It was a beast of a wave and the drop was A LOT of fun.
I ended up getting smashed by what seemed like a never-ending set. I finally pushed through, though I had to wrestle my board to the surface a couple of times.
Aaron was parked on the rights, loving it out there. He had never been past Mexico before so this was all new to him.
I caught a right, smacked it really well, then compressed hard into a roundhouse cutty. I hit the wash at about the two-thirds mark and slid the fins out. The most amazing part? I RECOVERED! I kicked out, amped.
Unfortunately, another brutal set came through and jostled me hard. My rib cage skin was aching and I could feel the lack of nourishment. My resolve weakened and I made plans to bail.
No waves came to help me on my way, so I paddled in.