I knew it was going to suck.
I was aware of the wind, the short period swell, and on top of this had heard rumblings in hushed tones about the Breach by Brazil; one count I got was of about three dozen dudes!
For those not in the know, Brazilians, while far and away GREAT people on land, are absolute aholes in the water. In Brazil, there isn't much in the form of surf etiquette. My understanding (and I didn't learn this until late in my surf career) is that if someone can catch a wave, they go.
They take this practice, almost as a compass reminding them of the way home, with them when going on surf trips. It's rare to even see them look if someone's coming!
I paddled out quickly, aided by the rip/sandspit, and caught my first wave within eight or so minutes of having perched. It was a nice enough wave considering the conditions. It was a really steep drop, about as steep as it gets at Panga Drops but then I immediately had to wait for the shoulder to catch up. Once it did so, I faded a little, then began pumping. Once I got some speed, I did a layback slash from which I wouldn't recover.
My second wave had a bit more oomph from the get-go, but a logging Brazilian caught it. It's probably the best I've felt about having been snaked. The guy was squatted in his action/stinkbug stance as though the thing was going to barrel over him and he was going to have to thread an imaginary freight train barrel. He was pretty far ahead of me and I didn't feel the urge to yell or whistle.
I went in to help ease the girls into their bedtime routine but it ended with me watching our eldest paddle my board around our condo complex's pool.
I was aware of the wind, the short period swell, and on top of this had heard rumblings in hushed tones about the Breach by Brazil; one count I got was of about three dozen dudes!
For those not in the know, Brazilians, while far and away GREAT people on land, are absolute aholes in the water. In Brazil, there isn't much in the form of surf etiquette. My understanding (and I didn't learn this until late in my surf career) is that if someone can catch a wave, they go.
They take this practice, almost as a compass reminding them of the way home, with them when going on surf trips. It's rare to even see them look if someone's coming!
I paddled out quickly, aided by the rip/sandspit, and caught my first wave within eight or so minutes of having perched. It was a nice enough wave considering the conditions. It was a really steep drop, about as steep as it gets at Panga Drops but then I immediately had to wait for the shoulder to catch up. Once it did so, I faded a little, then began pumping. Once I got some speed, I did a layback slash from which I wouldn't recover.
My second wave had a bit more oomph from the get-go, but a logging Brazilian caught it. It's probably the best I've felt about having been snaked. The guy was squatted in his action/stinkbug stance as though the thing was going to barrel over him and he was going to have to thread an imaginary freight train barrel. He was pretty far ahead of me and I didn't feel the urge to yell or whistle.
I went in to help ease the girls into their bedtime routine but it ended with me watching our eldest paddle my board around our condo complex's pool.
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