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Wednesday, May 30, 2018

5.30.18 Swampy and Swollen Playa Colorado

I wanted to surf earlier today when the tide was more advantageous but I had daddy duty with Chucho.  The girls were off to the presentation for Nicaraguan Mother's Day and I was not invited.

Eventually one of the neighbors came by and she said it was good.  Off I went to see for myself and bust this slump, caused mostly by inclement weather we'd been having which had wrecked the conditions.

The water looked extremely inviting.  Its smooth come hither surface titillated me while its exotic turquoise color made my loins purr.

The tide was pretty high but the crowd count was proportionally the inverse.  When I perched, the pack became three-strong and I knew both guys.  A fourth was a bit south of us and I knew him as well.  A couple of tourists filtered out throughout the session so it seems the unrest and resulting bad press is really controlling the crowd count.

The absolute highlight was my last wave.  It was a left which I had to do my Pitufo two-part takeoff because I was a bit early.  I hustled hard and stomped down to take in the fatness that lay before me.  I had to pump, then shuffle up to keep up with the slow-as-two-day-old-diarrhea wave. I did a mellow top turn, then saw a little pocket and I did a slash on which I slid the tail out ever so slightly and ended up super compressed.  I rode away out of that then got excited as the wave started feeling bottom and steepening.  I pumped a couple of times then did a little floater off the end section.  I pulled that and jumped off my board into knee-high water.  I took advantage of the momentum and walked towards my sandals and home.

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