After an arduous 12-hour trip back from El Salvador (we did stop to eat and do a Pricesmart run), I was ready to get my trunks wet. I've received word from m'lady that I am to surf my brains out as we will likely be leaving our new home due to the deteriorating conditions described in my previous post.
We've deliberated ad nauseam and the next stop will likely be El Salvador. Chucho, our twelve-year-old purebred mutt, will keel over and then we will be more open to destinations, including within the US.
Today was about head-and-a-half and a touch bigger on the sets. The swell had more west in it than I'd ever seen and the longshore current was sweeping us toward Costa Rica.
I had zero highlights. I got barreled on a right and didn't have a shot at making it, but I did see a guy get one of the sickest backside barrels I've ever seen in person.
He dropped in on a right, went around the section and snapstalled way too high on the face. He tucked down and threaded a heaving dry barrel. As if that wasn't enough, he pumped just after exiting, then laid into a brutal snap at the top of the wave. I saw air between the deck of his board and the wave's slope. He descended it. As he paddled past me smiling I gave him major props on it and he was very gracious.
The very next wave I saw another guy tuck into a pigdog stance and make a great barrel.
I also saw one guy get two nice barrels, both on rights. After getting swept down past the barrel sandbar, I got out and walked way north to try my luck again. Unfortunately, I wasn't in the right spot at the right time.
One realization I had this month is, in most places, you paddle for the peak so you get as deep as possible and enjoy a much longer wall in the process. Here, you paddle for the corner, as the initial peak will likely close out.
We've deliberated ad nauseam and the next stop will likely be El Salvador. Chucho, our twelve-year-old purebred mutt, will keel over and then we will be more open to destinations, including within the US.
Today was about head-and-a-half and a touch bigger on the sets. The swell had more west in it than I'd ever seen and the longshore current was sweeping us toward Costa Rica.
I had zero highlights. I got barreled on a right and didn't have a shot at making it, but I did see a guy get one of the sickest backside barrels I've ever seen in person.
He dropped in on a right, went around the section and snapstalled way too high on the face. He tucked down and threaded a heaving dry barrel. As if that wasn't enough, he pumped just after exiting, then laid into a brutal snap at the top of the wave. I saw air between the deck of his board and the wave's slope. He descended it. As he paddled past me smiling I gave him major props on it and he was very gracious.
The very next wave I saw another guy tuck into a pigdog stance and make a great barrel.
I also saw one guy get two nice barrels, both on rights. After getting swept down past the barrel sandbar, I got out and walked way north to try my luck again. Unfortunately, I wasn't in the right spot at the right time.
One realization I had this month is, in most places, you paddle for the peak so you get as deep as possible and enjoy a much longer wall in the process. Here, you paddle for the corner, as the initial peak will likely close out.
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