I knew it wouldn't be great today as the wind had shifted. I figured the crowd count would be down and, you never know, maybe I'd tuck into something good.
This time I kicked my sandals way up after seeing just how bad it was. It was worth paddling out though, as a nice left wall presented itself to me.
I sat where not a soul was sitting. About five minutes later, I caught a right and got hung up on the lip a bit. My fins reconnected and I watched as the section detonated in front of me.
I dodged some relative mackers for about forty-five minutes before I gave up.
I walked all the way to Panga Drops sandspit, paddled out there and perched. There were two dudes out but these were much more makeable, but still messy. I watched a wave wrap around the reef and take a horseshoe shape which was really cool-looking. I paddled over there and sat.
Ten minutes later or so, I paddled for a wave I knew I'd have to hustle for. I missed it and a neverending set arrived. I got beaten back about halfway to the sand and I was over it. I paddled for a wave that had a pretty good amount of angry-looking whitewater. It hit me so hard it made me pearl instantly despite my having my weight more on the tail.
The board slipped from my grasp, turned sideways and bonked me hard on the scrote/taint. I was aching. I felt around and both boys seemed to be in there. I caught another wave in, got my sandals from my second stash spot and walked home bumming.
This time I kicked my sandals way up after seeing just how bad it was. It was worth paddling out though, as a nice left wall presented itself to me.
I sat where not a soul was sitting. About five minutes later, I caught a right and got hung up on the lip a bit. My fins reconnected and I watched as the section detonated in front of me.
I dodged some relative mackers for about forty-five minutes before I gave up.
I walked all the way to Panga Drops sandspit, paddled out there and perched. There were two dudes out but these were much more makeable, but still messy. I watched a wave wrap around the reef and take a horseshoe shape which was really cool-looking. I paddled over there and sat.
Ten minutes later or so, I paddled for a wave I knew I'd have to hustle for. I missed it and a neverending set arrived. I got beaten back about halfway to the sand and I was over it. I paddled for a wave that had a pretty good amount of angry-looking whitewater. It hit me so hard it made me pearl instantly despite my having my weight more on the tail.
The board slipped from my grasp, turned sideways and bonked me hard on the scrote/taint. I was aching. I felt around and both boys seemed to be in there. I caught another wave in, got my sandals from my second stash spot and walked home bumming.
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