We met at the Buc Beach parking lot and that looked terrible. We ventured north and settled on surfing in front of Junior Seau's old house, like I did two days ago.
On my first wave, I had a chest-high left arrive and I was on it. Immediately after takeoff, the lip kissed my face. I ducked in to try to get a head dip, but by that point, it had stopped barrelling. I kicked my board out in front of me and let it all wash over me.
My next wave arrived almost ten minutes later. The wave was quick and raced off without me. The wave salvaged itself in my eyes as it provided a great view for a random moustached dude to get semi-covered up on the right. I claimed it for him and gave him a guttural "YEOH!".
I paddled for a wave three minutes later, but there was someone on it. I did my classic neck-crane move and sure enough, there was another one behind it and it was a double-up! I pumped once then set up for the barrel. It's hard to tell if I really got barreled or not. I think I got covered up for a little bit. But I will count it. I am getting really close to making these. I guarantee one frontside barrel make before the end of the year. This is ambitious, as we will be experiencing fewer S swells now that we are in the fall.
Another day, another switch crab grab, another no-make... 'nuff said!
I caught a wave, swooped up, then lost my footing as I tried to pump back down. I was leaning too far forward and endo'd..
My next wave was a chest-high quick left. I caught it and was barreled within a second of standing up. It reminded me of watching surf vids of guys getting pitted in Hawaii with one noteable difference: I didn't make mine. Mike saw all two seconds of the wave and said it looked like chaos.
Mike and I switched boards and I caught a right and got barreled for a fair bit before getting trounced by the closeout.
I also caught a left on which I went for a floater but over-committed towards the horizon.
There was also one wave on which I aborted before standing up and went into my protect-the-dome stance while getting thrashed.
Mike had to go in and I beat him to the sand. My shoulder is almost back to 100% which is good considering I am going BACK to El Salvador next week for a buddy's wedding. It will only be a week this time, but I intend on surfing my brains out. Of course, blog entries will follow.