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Tuesday, September 4, 2012

9.1.12 Swell Finally Arrives; Crowds Swarm In

After one of the more dismal summers in San Diego County in recent memory, relief arrived in the form of a combo SSW (groundswell) and SSE (hurricane) swell.  I knew I was in for a treat when I parked on Wisconsin Street and ran down towards the surf.  But first, I had some business I desperately had to attend to.

After a few minutes in the no doors, no seat and no privacy City of Oceanside restroom, I was rejuvenated!  I ran back up to The Rad and suited up after briefly considering trunking it.

I jogged down to about twenty yards south of what appeared to be the best crowd-to-quality ratio peak and paddled out.

My first wave was a meaty left on which I had to drop in straight and stay that way for longer than I would have liked.  A big bottom turn was faded back east due to a paddler who refused to duckdive.  I jumped into the water to let the wave wash over me.

I waited close to ten minutes for my next wave and the wait seemed to have paid off.  I was in a great spot when another good left came through.  About five yards to my inside, a guy on a thicker Rusty decided to take off on me.  He was unsuccessful in his attempt, but in order to avoid a big foam missile to the face, I was in a less-than-ideal spot on the wave.  I pulled though the wave.

On my way back out, he apologized and said he thought I was going right.  Notice in the video that not once did I look right...

I caught a right which was slow to develop.  Once it did, I pumped a couple of times and bonked it, but lost my footing in the wash.

Many waves passed on which I had a good look, but someone was a bit deeper than me. 

A quick left popped up, and I got six pumps in on it.  I was racing this thing to the sand!  There was no payoff to be had, but I had a great time jousting with this head-high screamer.

I stayed out another half-hour.  The waves became inconsistent as the high tide had drowned the sandbars in water too deep for them to mold their magic.

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