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Saturday, July 7, 2012

7.6.12 What-The-Hey Session at Sunzal w/ Aaron and Mac

Sunzal is a wave that is located on the west side of El Tunco, the east side being occupied by La Bocana.  It is a slower wave and is surfed mainly by beginners.  Aaron was loving it because he was taking his pick of waves.  This being his last session of the trip I decided to paddle out.

The paddle-out is, on a big day, the longest the vast majority of visiting surfers will experience during their surfing careers.  Today was small, maybe four-foot, but it was still an arm-noodler.

Mac was having his first post-injury surf and paddled for a set wave.  He shouted me onto it after he decided it wasn't for him. I was facing him, but quickly whirled around and did the lean-way-forward, two-paddle take-off.  The whitewash hit me.  I was thrown off-balance and struggled to get up.  My board hit a chop, sending the front half of it airborne.  When it touched down again, the battle had been lost.  I fell backwards and had an unpleasant experience, smacking 'the boys' on the water.  Oof.

I paddled back out and ulled back fromm about five waves as they didn't have much of a wall to them.

Finally, a decent one came and I was on it.  I did a drawn-out roundhouse cutty and connected with the wash just fine.  My second one was done as the wave was petering out and was unsuccessful.

I was over it and went in.

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