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Sunday, July 22, 2012

7.20.12 Solo Mish to TINY D Street, Worth it, though!

Should I surf today?

I knew it was going to be small everywhere and there was no sense wasting gas to drive to Oceanside.

After much inner turmoil, I decided to check D Street.  It was about as small as I expected.  Every five minutes or so, a set would rifle through that was possibly waist high.  I spied a two-wave set peel down the line just south of D and felt my surf appendage move.  

The weather was absolutely stunning.  It would be a shame to go back inside.  Another two-wave set came through, unridden.  Out thar!

My first wave was a left; very well lined-up and about thigh-high.  I got about three solid pumps in before the wave let me in on its secret:  There was no end section to be had.  I kicked out, thinking this would be as good as it got, and I felt ok with that.

Another left came about ten minutes later.  This one was not quite as lined-up and I pumped through some crashing lip before giving up.

Less than five minutes later, I spotted a bump about twenty yards outside of me.  I paddled hard to the outside and decided dejectedly I was too deep for it.  I craned my neck to see if it had a twin brother that was lagging and sure enough! 

I took about six strokes to the outside, thinking this would be enough to allow a short runway before taking off.  If its recently perished brother was any indication, this one would be hollow as well.  I whirled around and paddled as hard as I could before I realized I was in.  The wave jacked up and show its gorgeous hollow line as I dropped in.  I got into my crab-grab stance as I knew it would be a tight one.  I threaded through there for less than a second before the lip hit me in the head, distorting my vision for a split second.  I kept driving, and got the whoa-I'm-in-here-longer-than-I-expected high I've described in write-ups of barrels past.  The tunnel eventually collapsed on me and while writhing around underwater I managed to hit my head on my board.  Nothing too bad, but it left a souvenir bump on the back of my head.

Be sure to rapidly click/unclick the play/pause button and not blink or you'll miss my hydro-spelunking adventure!

As I paddled out, an older gentleman on a log complimented me on my barrel and asked if I'd hit my head (he must have seen me rubbing it upon coming up).  I replied affirmatively but added it was worth it.  He laughed.

About seven minutes later, another right came.  This one was bigger (2.5ft?), but not quite as hollow.  I got into a pigdog stance and saw a section of lip that looked like it might fold over.  I aimed up, then down at it and tucked my body forward.  My head got barreled as the lip hit my left shoulder.  I pulled out the back, still grabbing rail.

Another left came, but it allowed for just two pumps before fizzling.

My last wave was a left.  I popped up and immediately pumped.  I realized at the top of my trajectory I could've gotten barreled, though it was questionable if I'd been able to fit in.  My board and lowest of extremeties got barreled.

I decided to call it a day.

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