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Monday, July 2, 2012

7.1.12 STEEP drops at La Bocanita

I was checking the waves from my vantage point at the hotel. La Bocana looked ok, but La Bocanita ( a shorebreak spot I've surfed twice before) was firing!

I went back and forth. La Bocana or La Bocanita? La Bocana or La Bocanita?  I finally decided to surf La Bocanita even though there were about four heads in the water.

While paddling out I saw a girl catch a steep left, make the drop, then proceed to get ANNIHILATED in a smack attempt. BOOM!

My first wave arrived quickly, as tends to happen at shorebreaks.  I caught it, negotiated the steep drop, then thought about setting up for the barrel section.  I pussed out at the last second, intimidated by the sight of El Tunco, the famous rock formation that sits in the middle of Sunzal and La Bocana.

Five or six guys started paddling out with stickers on their boards.  More than likely, they were sponsored guys in town for Copa Quiksilver.  I caught a right EXTREMELY late, could've easily gotten and made the barrel (damn it) but elected to go for the bottom turn into a super-steep section.  I threw a ton of spray, heard the first bit hit the water, but pearled and got catapulted HARD into the water.  I came up with a slight headache that would stick around for almost four hours.  This is the definite front-runner for Bail of the Month.

The bros were killing it.  I saw one who was charging especially hard get two barrels where he took off under the lip, though he made neither.  I saw his bro catch a left, pigdog and exit cleanly even smashing the end section decisively.  SICK!

I caught a couple of others that let me in, but didn't barrel.  After I realized I wasn't going to get any tunnel time, I pumped and tried to do a roundhouse cutty, but both times I bogged.  I think I attempted them too flatly on the wave.

I caught a nice left which was steep and smacked it, but ate it.

Then, I saw the girl from the beginning of this post paddle for a wave.  I wanted to shout, "NNNOOO!!!" as she kept paddling well past the point she should have.  The wave was obviously a closeout at this point.  The bros who saw her go made their ouch faces and she went in after that.  Major props to her for charging a pretty hairy wave!

I went in, electing to save my rib cage skin from further abuse.

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