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Saturday, July 14, 2012

7.13.12 TINY Tyson Street

The first dunk in the ocean upon returning from the tropics is always nasty.  I arrived at Oside Pier at seven in the morning and saw a sweet 2' set break with no one on it.  Missed-It-Mike claimed Harbor would be good so I gave it a check.  It revealed nearly two dozen heads in the water, mostly congregated around the south jetty.  In the few minutes I checked it, nary a wave was ridden.  OVER IT!

I doubled back to Oside Pier and parked in the free lot.  I paddled out at Tyson Street after a healthy jog.  I wasn't seeing much in terms of waves, but I did notice an increase in the head count.

On my first wave, I caught it early and angled almost from the beginning.  I pumped and got a bit ahead of myself.  I ended up flamingoing, then endo'ing shortly thereafter.

My second wave was a right and I caught it a bit late.  I descended and, still used to my heftier board in El Salvador, bottom-turned REALLY hard.  Unfortunately, by the time I got to the lip, the whackable spot (at least for my ability level) had passed me by.

I noticed, in between waves, that my teeth were chattering.  The water had dipped down to 63 in my absence, a couple of degrees away from 4/3 territory.

I had to fight to catch my third wave.  I was successful in doing so, but the extra time allowed the wave extra time to section me off.  I bottom turned right into the section and bailed out the back.

On my last wave, I was on such a small and abrupt wave that I couldn't get to my feet in time.  The wave shut down in both directions and I ended up going straight on one knee.  Not my proudest moment, but at least I didn't miss out on a decent wave.

I bailed, happy to re-lose my cold water virginity.

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