The gorgeous day continued to shower us with amazingness. I got the call from Mark and I was ready to hit it again. My wetsuit was still wet from the first sesh of the day when I shoved it back into its plastic enclosure and into The Rad.
I don't normally surf during the workday, but I convinced myself my Hawaiian ancestors (I have none) would understand and made an exception. I knew the surf wouldn't be great on my glass slipper DHD, so I loaded up the beaten and bruised fish.
I arrived at the beach pad, suited up, lathered my face with sunscreen and descended down to Avocado's. There were a couple of guys who I thought were in the water with pole cams but upon closer inspection, I realized they were spear fishing.
There were many junky waves so I will spare you, dear readers, and just give you the highlights. My first right had a drop and I felt like I washed the fins out on the bottom turn. I made it a goal to slide the fins out and at least make it halfway to a 360 on every right thereafter. I grabbed rail on every right while sliding my weight towards the front of the board (and away from the fins).
Was I successful? Let's just say I was extremely consistent in my inability to fulfill my goal.
I caught a couple of lefts that turned into bona fide steep waves on the inside. My rhythm was off on both of them, unfortunately, and I was caught with my wetsuit around my ankles as the respective lips threw while I was still on my way up to them.
After about an hour and a half we packed it in.
Later in the day I noticed I'd gotten slightly sunburned on my hands. It's never a bad idea to get an early start on this winter's eventual wetsuit tan!