It had been a long time since I surfed, mostly due to lackluster swell issues. Today, that changed, so I got out there.
I pedaled down to Harbor after being dissatisfied with what I saw at points south.
The waves were overhead and the crowd to meet them was as generous as the swell.
It took a lot of paddling before I caught my first wave. It was at least head-and-a-half. I caught it knowing it would close out within a few seconds, but wanting to get my surf legs under me. I felt the power and it made me giddy with excitement, a feeling I hadn't felt in the water in a long time.
After forty or so minutes of paddling, I caught a right and did an ok snap on it.
Not much more happened, as I had to deal with the crowd and shifty waves. I went in and pedaled home.
I pedaled down to Harbor after being dissatisfied with what I saw at points south.
The waves were overhead and the crowd to meet them was as generous as the swell.
It took a lot of paddling before I caught my first wave. It was at least head-and-a-half. I caught it knowing it would close out within a few seconds, but wanting to get my surf legs under me. I felt the power and it made me giddy with excitement, a feeling I hadn't felt in the water in a long time.
After forty or so minutes of paddling, I caught a right and did an ok snap on it.
Not much more happened, as I had to deal with the crowd and shifty waves. I went in and pedaled home.
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