This morning the waves looked the worst they've looked on a healthy rising tide. This bummer was mitigated by the sight of only one other dude. I thought about paddling out and perching RIGHT next to him just to see what face he'd make but I thought better of it.
The waves were as shifty as they've ever been. After paddling out near the long ago beached tree trunk I ended up in front of the pool area of the condo complex at which we're staying.
Buzz/Mark, the condo manager was out for his usual daybreak surf report photo-taking. Obviously, I need to be a part of this hallowed Facebook ground.
My first wave/attempt was a right on which I got covered up and had a 1% chance of making it out. Unlike what the Occupy Wall Street people may tell you, the 99% won out yet again.
I caught a left on which I did a risky pump in a very steep part of the wave and came away with A LOT of speed. I went a little out on to the shoulder and was set on trying a roundhouse cutty, but nixed that idea, thinking I was too close to the foam. I did an awkward slash and finished the wave poorly.
On my last wave of note, another left, I got a good pump in and then banked/floated the inside a couple of seconds later.
Injury Report: My left ear is still clogged despite a couple of Swim Ear infusions. It's been clogged nonstop for about five days. My wife is getting annoyed at my repeated "What?"'s and "Huh?"'s.
My back is almost to 100%. I'm getting a pretty sick looking bruise there as well as on my right tricep where apparently there was damage too.
The waves were as shifty as they've ever been. After paddling out near the long ago beached tree trunk I ended up in front of the pool area of the condo complex at which we're staying.
Buzz/Mark, the condo manager was out for his usual daybreak surf report photo-taking. Obviously, I need to be a part of this hallowed Facebook ground.
My first wave/attempt was a right on which I got covered up and had a 1% chance of making it out. Unlike what the Occupy Wall Street people may tell you, the 99% won out yet again.
I caught a left on which I did a risky pump in a very steep part of the wave and came away with A LOT of speed. I went a little out on to the shoulder and was set on trying a roundhouse cutty, but nixed that idea, thinking I was too close to the foam. I did an awkward slash and finished the wave poorly.
On my last wave of note, another left, I got a good pump in and then banked/floated the inside a couple of seconds later.
Injury Report: My left ear is still clogged despite a couple of Swim Ear infusions. It's been clogged nonstop for about five days. My wife is getting annoyed at my repeated "What?"'s and "Huh?"'s.
My back is almost to 100%. I'm getting a pretty sick looking bruise there as well as on my right tricep where apparently there was damage too.
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