The baby took a napping break and I was able to sneak out to get some more waves. This time the tide was high and still rising. The paddle-out was tough in that the waves kept coming at me, but when they hit me they were soft pats on the back. It was during one of these duckdives I first felt the annoying water-stuck-in-my-ear feeling which plagued me throughout the session and still does now. I blame it on the inflammation caused by the aforementioned ear infection.
Just after I perched a wave came and an older guy told me to go fo it. It was a good-sized left and I was salivating. It started off racy and I made it around the corner and found a section. I hit it but didn't keep the board under me through the turn, causing me to splay out at the last part of the turn.
I raced another wave, this time a right, but couldn't catch up to it. The sideshore wind had picked up and hampered my attempt at speeding towards the open face.
The waves were fat and getting lumpy thanks to the wind. On top of that they were pretty shifty and difficult to catch.
I caught another left and was too high on it when it backed off slightly, leaving me out of the speed pocket and out of luck.
I paddled back towards Costa Rica and saw the guy who gave me the wave at the beginning of the session. I thanked him for the wave as it's so rare to be given waves these days and wanted to make sure he knew it was appreciated.
I went in not long after so as not to get too much sun for so-so waves.
Just after I perched a wave came and an older guy told me to go fo it. It was a good-sized left and I was salivating. It started off racy and I made it around the corner and found a section. I hit it but didn't keep the board under me through the turn, causing me to splay out at the last part of the turn.
I raced another wave, this time a right, but couldn't catch up to it. The sideshore wind had picked up and hampered my attempt at speeding towards the open face.
The waves were fat and getting lumpy thanks to the wind. On top of that they were pretty shifty and difficult to catch.
I caught another left and was too high on it when it backed off slightly, leaving me out of the speed pocket and out of luck.
I paddled back towards Costa Rica and saw the guy who gave me the wave at the beginning of the session. I thanked him for the wave as it's so rare to be given waves these days and wanted to make sure he knew it was appreciated.
I went in not long after so as not to get too much sun for so-so waves.
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