I rounded the corner of the condo building and noticed too many people were on their way to the beach. I was up early enough, but the head count looked like it would increase from yesterday's logjam.
As I reached the sand, Mark (manager of most of the condos), said there were twenty-three people in boats. I shuddered. As I paddled out, I saw a guy on a sponge wearing a backpack paddle out. It was then I realized the twenty-three people were going on local boat trips to find less crowded surf. YES
The tide was coming off its extreme 10' peak and the surf reflected that. I had one right on which I smacked it nice and high, then felt the wind and fatness of the wave conspire to fade me off. I quickly shuffled my feet up towards the nose, then back down once I'd made to the descent point. I did another smack and tried to shuffle up again but I was defeated.
I caught a left and had a good smack off the top. I got hung up there and it turned into a floater from which I never descended. I went in after about eighty minutes of water time, trying to save myself from the sun until the surf was worth it.
As I reached the sand, Mark (manager of most of the condos), said there were twenty-three people in boats. I shuddered. As I paddled out, I saw a guy on a sponge wearing a backpack paddle out. It was then I realized the twenty-three people were going on local boat trips to find less crowded surf. YES
The tide was coming off its extreme 10' peak and the surf reflected that. I had one right on which I smacked it nice and high, then felt the wind and fatness of the wave conspire to fade me off. I quickly shuffled my feet up towards the nose, then back down once I'd made to the descent point. I did another smack and tried to shuffle up again but I was defeated.
I caught a left and had a good smack off the top. I got hung up there and it turned into a floater from which I never descended. I went in after about eighty minutes of water time, trying to save myself from the sun until the surf was worth it.
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