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Tuesday, May 22, 2012

5.19.2012 Another Go-Around at Avocado's with Mark EVENING SESH

Please pray for Mark.  He has come down with acute surf fever: surfus stokeitis.  The guy is amped!

We spied some rollers rolling over lazily from the cliff and were excited at the prospect of surfing better waves than last time. 

As we were concluding paddling out, we saw dolphins jumping out of the water, then two surfacing while nuzzling.  Very cool!

Not very long after completing the paddle-out, I caught a nice right that steepened up.  I bashed it pretty well and got some speed from it.  I even got hooted by some guy paddling out with his buddy.  And I did what the cool guys do: Pretend I didn't notice.

About five minutes thereafter, I caught a left that had a little bit of steepness to it.  I was able to reach the foam for the oncoming section.  I SMASHED it, but didn't keep my weight over my board and was left behind.  Had I weighted properly, I'm pretty sure I would've busted the fins out the back.

The rising tide was making its presence felt by teasing us with what looked to be steep waves, but they fizzled out.  On one particularly tempting ride, I put too much pressure on my front foot and launched over the front of my board.

On another left, I started bottom turning, but aborted midway and tried to pump.  The indecision threw me off my board on what looked like one of the better waves of the afternoon.  Bummer.

Mark and I caught some party waves together, but nothing spectacular.

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