I had a real uneasiness set in as I paddled out. There were some bombs coming through, but nothing outside of my wheelhouse, even on my 5'11". I can't explain it, but I just got this feeling in the esophagal area of foreboding doom.
The swell was easily a foot bigger than I'd anticipated and there was almost no one out. The right at Wyoming looked good but there was a pack on it so I opted for Colorado.
After a couple of spankings, I made it out and perched. Chucho was running amok in the sand, leashless and fancy free.
A left broke down the way and I sprint-paddled to meet it. The one nice thing about waves which break quickly is you can bullshit your way into catching them if you're really far down the line like I was. I did so and there was a wall of pain coming for me so I hit the eject button and sailor-dove out the back.
Quick glances toward shore revealed Chucho was being coaxed north; the sight of each beaching surfer beckoning him further from me. This, together with the queasiness from my uneasiness, made me take the next one in.
I have little shot at a decent session unless I can get someone to dogsit him.
The swell was easily a foot bigger than I'd anticipated and there was almost no one out. The right at Wyoming looked good but there was a pack on it so I opted for Colorado.
After a couple of spankings, I made it out and perched. Chucho was running amok in the sand, leashless and fancy free.
A left broke down the way and I sprint-paddled to meet it. The one nice thing about waves which break quickly is you can bullshit your way into catching them if you're really far down the line like I was. I did so and there was a wall of pain coming for me so I hit the eject button and sailor-dove out the back.
Quick glances toward shore revealed Chucho was being coaxed north; the sight of each beaching surfer beckoning him further from me. This, together with the queasiness from my uneasiness, made me take the next one in.
I have little shot at a decent session unless I can get someone to dogsit him.
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