The bike I've been borrowing from a soon-departing neighbor was being used by said neighbor so i hoofed it barefoot to the beach.
Paddling out I was stricken by how glassy the water was. The water was crystal clear, I could see individual grains of sand tumbling around in the current.
This was a session of almosts in various ways.
My first wave was a left. I zoomed around the initial section, snapstalled and got barreled with a view. I was ALMOST in there for 1.5 seconds.
I had another left on which I tried to do what I've seen guys do on surf videos. It happened without thinking. I went around the section and really had to slow down. I snowboard pumped (picture trying to get going on a snowboard from a standstill) backwards so as to let the wave catch up to me and try to get into the barrel I ALMOST fit in.
I caught a right and tucked into a pigdog. It was a late drop and I must have gotten hung up on the lip. I dropped straight down into a decent line for the barrel but I must have been weighting too far forward and dropped down into the drink. I instinctively put my hand up and ALMOST had the nose of my board hit me in my face hard. I had a nice red mark to show for it.
I had a look at a really nice left. I unfortunately set up too far away from the wall and got smooshed down into the water. I ALMOST got really barreled and would have likely made it out.
My last wave was another pigdog attempt. I was successful in getting in the barrel and then the thing closed down on me. I tried to pull out the back and was ALMOST triumphant. The wave was jacking hard in its closeout ecstasy and I went over the falls, but half in the barrel. I was still grabbing on to my board, I think, and it flipped up and I landed awkwardly on the fins with my feet. It hurt so bad but luckily I hadn't injured anything.
Paddling out I was stricken by how glassy the water was. The water was crystal clear, I could see individual grains of sand tumbling around in the current.
This was a session of almosts in various ways.
My first wave was a left. I zoomed around the initial section, snapstalled and got barreled with a view. I was ALMOST in there for 1.5 seconds.
I had another left on which I tried to do what I've seen guys do on surf videos. It happened without thinking. I went around the section and really had to slow down. I snowboard pumped (picture trying to get going on a snowboard from a standstill) backwards so as to let the wave catch up to me and try to get into the barrel I ALMOST fit in.
I caught a right and tucked into a pigdog. It was a late drop and I must have gotten hung up on the lip. I dropped straight down into a decent line for the barrel but I must have been weighting too far forward and dropped down into the drink. I instinctively put my hand up and ALMOST had the nose of my board hit me in my face hard. I had a nice red mark to show for it.
I had a look at a really nice left. I unfortunately set up too far away from the wall and got smooshed down into the water. I ALMOST got really barreled and would have likely made it out.
My last wave was another pigdog attempt. I was successful in getting in the barrel and then the thing closed down on me. I tried to pull out the back and was ALMOST triumphant. The wave was jacking hard in its closeout ecstasy and I went over the falls, but half in the barrel. I was still grabbing on to my board, I think, and it flipped up and I landed awkwardly on the fins with my feet. It hurt so bad but luckily I hadn't injured anything.
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