The swell was supposed to be huge today. I was expecting to see double overhead plus. My rare no-board-in-tow surf check revealed it was about the same size as yesterday.
I waited until the tide dropped a bit as it was still a bit chunky and then the swell bared a bit more fang.
There were some beastly waves rolling through, not one of them makeable. I saw one in the distance that was a little smaller than the sets and a dude got into the barrel and it kind of sat there spinning. I thought for sure he was going to make it as it was almost waiting for him to exit but something went wrong.
Unfortunately for me, after a paddle out I had a session of waiting with some beatings sprinkled in.
I was just on the wrong side of a nasty closeout and the couple I had a shot at it I was too inside for.
Case in point, I paddled for a big right and the section right in front of leapt up. There was a guy paddling for it and I told him to go, given his premium positioning compared to mind. I then watched in horror as the massive section clamped down on him. He floated up and for a split second caught him holding the top of his noggin as he went over the falls. I was unsure if that was a protective hold or an ouch, that smarts hold.
I caught one left and I was in awe at the power behind it. The thing paused, then pounced. I looked ahead and saw the right coming towards me so I pulled through after about three seconds up and riding.
The worst beating happened late in the session. I duckdove as a macker bore down on me. I was immediately flipped over and shoved down so hard and so fast I was shocked at how quickly the inside of my eyelids registered no light. I was determined to hold on to my board and come up with it but a second surge came and ripped it from my clenched fingers. When I came up they were aching from the battle.
I got caught inside on a set and the sun was close to setting, so I went in.
I waited until the tide dropped a bit as it was still a bit chunky and then the swell bared a bit more fang.
There were some beastly waves rolling through, not one of them makeable. I saw one in the distance that was a little smaller than the sets and a dude got into the barrel and it kind of sat there spinning. I thought for sure he was going to make it as it was almost waiting for him to exit but something went wrong.
Unfortunately for me, after a paddle out I had a session of waiting with some beatings sprinkled in.
I was just on the wrong side of a nasty closeout and the couple I had a shot at it I was too inside for.
Case in point, I paddled for a big right and the section right in front of leapt up. There was a guy paddling for it and I told him to go, given his premium positioning compared to mind. I then watched in horror as the massive section clamped down on him. He floated up and for a split second caught him holding the top of his noggin as he went over the falls. I was unsure if that was a protective hold or an ouch, that smarts hold.
I caught one left and I was in awe at the power behind it. The thing paused, then pounced. I looked ahead and saw the right coming towards me so I pulled through after about three seconds up and riding.
The worst beating happened late in the session. I duckdove as a macker bore down on me. I was immediately flipped over and shoved down so hard and so fast I was shocked at how quickly the inside of my eyelids registered no light. I was determined to hold on to my board and come up with it but a second surge came and ripped it from my clenched fingers. When I came up they were aching from the battle.
I got caught inside on a set and the sun was close to setting, so I went in.
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