DAY SIX: Puebla to Acayucan, Veracruz

After the previous night's shabby accommodations, I splurged a little and got us some nicer digs.  Chucho didn't come out from under the covers for nearly ten hours.

I'd originally planned for us to go all the way to Coatzacoalcos, right on the Caribbean, but after dealing with the traffic and this-way-that-way of Puebla I opted for something a little more low-key.  The room from which I am typing this is small, looks out over the parking area (which makes up the courtyard of the building), and is $33/night (Chucho was extra).  The best part is I am literally across the street from the town square with a beautiful church and walking distance to a lot of what the town has to offer.

I had a few turns where I thought I'd missed my turn, mostly while trying to get of the sprawling metropolis that is Puebla.  I also had to navigate an elongated u-turn under a bridge at speed (on the Periferico, which goes around the city) during which it felt like Opie was going to topple over.

As interesting as Puebla was, I was glad to get out of there and the drive turned very scenic.  We descended from the highlands of Puebla down this gorgeous switchback mountain road.  We passed fog warning signs and went through a few tunnels.

On the way down I remarked to Chucho how green everything looked and once we flattened out, I realized we were in the tropics.  We passed many kilometers of marshlands and some beautiful islands.

I'd set up so as to be able to listen to an audiobook and in the scrum couldn't find my GuyPod.  The CD player wouldn't play on my speaker and since I'd neglected to download a podcast or two when I had wi-fi, I sat through Mexican radio for most of the journey.  A lot of Mexican music is based on polka; I read an article years ago that in the 1930s a Polish polka band went on a touring rampage throughout Mexico.  They became a sensation and its influence is still being felt today.  The music isn't bad but it does get tiring going on three hours of it.

As I turned off for Acayucan, I saw signs for Salina Cruz.  There are famous waves in Mexico dotted in and around Salina Cruz and not too far around the bend is Puerto Escondido, arguably the best beachbreak on the planet.  I quieted my loins by telling myself that south swell season is pretty much over.  Opie, despite the absolute champ he has been so far, would also not fare well on coastal roads. There's a chance I can surf Punta Roca when I arrive in El Salvador though there may not be waves.

I ate in a restaurant facing the aforementioned town square and noticed as I left that people were lining the sidewalks in anticipation of something.  I looked up the hill and saw a banner with headlights behind it.  I squinted past those and could make out some people in costumes.

Five minutes later, a pick-up passed us with speakers in the back.  College students in full costume began choreographed dance routines.  October 31st kicks off the Dia de los Muertos celebrations here in Mexico.  Many places had little displays and offerings for the departed.  My hotel had some booze, ciggies, and food treats.  In El Salvador we somberly went to the cemetery on November 2nd.  Mexico's celebration is the way to do it!

Chucho checking out the carnage

Very elaborate costumes; they really do go all out

Check out the fullish moon

I was in bed before eight.  Even though it wasn't that long a drive I was exhausted from scanning the road for potholes and tensing up on rough patches of road.  This stretch had the gnarliest of the trip so far but that is understandable given the topography.

My hotel's display, RIGHT in the lobby.  I would imagine they consume all of this once the festivities are over.