I longingly looked down the beach to Colorado, hoping to see a morsel of something, something that would save me from the long paddle out to PDs. In the haze, I made out over a dozen heads. I saw one guy on a left struggling to catch up to the high tide line and that's when I boomeranged right, towards Pangas.
I surveyed the waterscape and didn't see anything working where I'd caught a couple yesterday. It looked like I was going to have to paddle all the way out.
The waves I observed being ridden as I paddled out were on the flat side, surely a product of the peaking high tide. I cursed my timing; I could have woken Raquel up to be with Lucia and I would have likely had a higher chance at better waves. Though the thought crossed my mind, I labeled it as non-starter dick move each time it reared its head.
I eventually made it out, though I was still inside of the bombs. These consisted of a drop and a respectable but messy wall on the rights and not much more than drop on the lefts. I paddled for a right and was really close to catching it but it wasn't meant to be.
A set came and I paddled out. The top of it had just started breaking and I attempted to punch through it above the water. It packed more of a punch than I had anticipated and it felt as though I'd been punched in the face.
The highlight of the session was a guy catching a right. I duckdived so as not to be in his way and I went at too sharp an angle and made a fool of myself. I came up awkwardly after having barely penetrated the water and my board and I were soon separated. This likely would have been a finalist on @kook_of_the_day had anyone been filming.
Two clean-up sets came and the slopes were very flat. After getting rolled a few times I looked back and the beach was close. I called it a session after having caught ZERO waves...
I'm thinking I will only paddle out at low- to mid-tides outside of the 10-2 mid-day bakefest. Rising and close to high tide leads to too-fat waves and more whitewater to punch through. If I get a shot, I'll do so this afternoon.
I surveyed the waterscape and didn't see anything working where I'd caught a couple yesterday. It looked like I was going to have to paddle all the way out.
The waves I observed being ridden as I paddled out were on the flat side, surely a product of the peaking high tide. I cursed my timing; I could have woken Raquel up to be with Lucia and I would have likely had a higher chance at better waves. Though the thought crossed my mind, I labeled it as non-starter dick move each time it reared its head.
I eventually made it out, though I was still inside of the bombs. These consisted of a drop and a respectable but messy wall on the rights and not much more than drop on the lefts. I paddled for a right and was really close to catching it but it wasn't meant to be.
A set came and I paddled out. The top of it had just started breaking and I attempted to punch through it above the water. It packed more of a punch than I had anticipated and it felt as though I'd been punched in the face.
The highlight of the session was a guy catching a right. I duckdived so as not to be in his way and I went at too sharp an angle and made a fool of myself. I came up awkwardly after having barely penetrated the water and my board and I were soon separated. This likely would have been a finalist on @kook_of_the_day had anyone been filming.
Two clean-up sets came and the slopes were very flat. After getting rolled a few times I looked back and the beach was close. I called it a session after having caught ZERO waves...
I'm thinking I will only paddle out at low- to mid-tides outside of the 10-2 mid-day bakefest. Rising and close to high tide leads to too-fat waves and more whitewater to punch through. If I get a shot, I'll do so this afternoon.
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