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Tuesday, November 14, 2017

11.14.17 Plenty O' Paddling @ Panga

This was one of the funniest sessions in a while.  I had anticipated a juicy low tide session and took two fins out of my board last night.  I paddled out past Panga which had about ten heads on it.  I made it out with a couple of light duckdives and that's when the game began.  A wave would come and it would appear as though it would absolutely, definitely break.  I'd paddle for it, miss it, then be too inside of the next one.

I would get wise, adjust, then miss a rideable (albeit barely so) wave.

I was getting ravaged by what is colloquially known as chichicaste in El Salvador.  I still don't know what it is; I've been told it's sea lice, microscopic barbed plant material, even baby (somehow invisible) jellyfish.  I got some in my arm pit and later across both of my buttcheeks.  It can sting pretty bad and is one of my top three stoke-killers.

I sat almost all of the way out, just shy of the foam-heavy pack.  My intent was to pick off the scraps.  It was too inconsistent and the pack fanned out in boredom, rendering my strategy moot.

Eventually, I went in little by little, missing wave after wave.  I was either too inside or outside and didn't get any clean looks at anything.

I developed massive foam envy.  The guys on logs and funboards were catching some head-and-a-half sets on the outside.  It was very inconsistent and the waves were fat, but still a better experience than mine.

I couldn't help but laugh at my luck.  Eventually, I stood up on a shorebreak wave and went in.

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