Given our brief visit on this trip, this would turn out to be my first and final afternoon sesh. On our perch on the cliff, I saw some tasty waves from which I could get a cool buzz. La Bocanita looked a bit more enticing, but there were a dozen heads on it already.
I paddled out inside of the rock that looks like a pipe and paddled for a good five/six minutes before perching. It took me a long time to catch my first wave.
It was a screamer of a left and I never caught up to it. I dove into the wash of the wave and got hammered, my first taste of real kiwi power meeting the cobblestones of El Salvador since July.
I caught a second wave, but for the life of me, cannot remember what happened on it. I remember I got drilled again, so it couldn't have been incredible.
I decided to go in and caught a sweet, steep insider. I went for an air on it and got some, but landed off the back. I caught another little one and kicked out quickly as I was getting shallow. I got on my board and looked in time to see water sucking off a big rock, a big boil revealing a big round beast of now above-surface rock. Whoa.
I made it in without issue, anxious to try my luck elsewhere in the morning.
"If the best surfer in the water is the one having the most fun, Eddie P would be a promising amateur who eventually burns out and is forced to perform 'favors' for surf wax" -Anonymous
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