I had a long appointment Sunday morning and I couldn't hit it. My loins longed for some salt water goodness, and I was fortunate enough to enlist the bro-dom of MC Gorgeous G. MCGG is my rap protegé. I inspired him to get into the rap game and I like to think I will be the first one thanked when he picks up his first Grammy.
Here is a clip of his debut single. We're currently embroiled in some intense songwriting sessions. The real wait, of course, will come when it's time to clear samples...
After almost pussing out, I opted to trunk it. It was about two in the afternoon and I figured it may be my last chance to trunk it this year (in the US).
As we cruised past a blackballed (!) Buc Beach, I saw a parking spot with an excellent view of the surf. I spied a pretty sick and consistent left peeling down the line with barely anyone on it. Out thar!
Upon paddling out, I saw a big rock in the surf line of the inside. Whoa. I'm not used to seeing dry reef in the US. I told MCGG about it and his eyes bugged out.
My first wave was a quick right that lacked the juice to support the roundhouse cutty I was going for. I faded off the back.
Less than a minute later, I caught a left that I jousted with and lost. It outraced me and I jumped over the back.
My next wave was the wave of the day. I did a weak top turn, then pumped, then decided to go for a roundhouse cutty. I decided to cut it short and tried to get the fins free. I felt them destabilize, but alas, they stayed put. The wave shut down and I kicked out.
The next wave was also a good one, but a bit smaller. I did a weak turn, a slightly stronger turn, and then my strongest turn of the day.
Mark and I were super-amped at the peaky and extremely fun conditions. I felt like I was surfing a cold water La Bocana with fewer people. I was catching a lot of left, and I believe it was because I was willing to set up in a spot where I could pretty easily surf into the big dry rock. It reminded me a bit of the Monuments session I had in Baja four years earlier.
I had a good look at a third good left. I pumped a few times before going for a snap. I miscalculated how soft the section of choice would be and flopped onto my back. Bummer.
The waves shut down and the onshore wind kicked up. On top of that, the clouds began blocking the sun and my teeth started chattering uncontrollably. We went in not long thereafter.