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Wednesday, September 26, 2012

9.26.12 Back to Medios with Chamba and Chato

I managed to catch a bug, probably because I used the keyboards on the computers at the Admirals Club in LA.  Yesterday sucked, as a result.  We barely made the connection from Miami to ES and our bag didn't make it.

I did get to have dinner with Pando and Panda (his wife of almost three months).  He handed me back my board and another cell phone for me to borrow, but hopefully not ruin this time.  I called Chamba and told him we should surf Punta Roca the next day.  I called him at 545 this morning.  He said the waves weren't very consistent and we should surf where I was staying.  My leash was at my uncle's house in Santa Tecla, so I asked Chamba to let me borrow one of his.

He came by with Chato and we got out thar.  My sunscreen was in Miami along with the rest of my clothes, but I managed to scrounge a tiny amount from a bottle that had been stored and forgotten about for several years.  Since I had so little, I focused on the left side of my back, my left arm and the left side of my face, as that was where the sun would be hitting me the hardest.

I paddled for quite a few waves, but there were a lot of closeouts to contend with.  I got a left on which I took my time popping up (hard to get re-adjusted to the board after so many sessions on the DHD back home).  I kicked out just as it was closing out on me.

My best wave of the day was my second one.  It was a screamer.  I was so behind on it at first.  I was able to pump back into the pocket.  It wasn't quite barreling, but I sat there with mad style (or so it felt) and turbo'd down the face.

Another wave came by and I knew it would be iffy.  I was really late on it and stood up.  I bounce along with the whitewash and never really made it down to the trough.

I crab-grabbed into a pretty good one, though by the time I got in the barrel, it resembled a left more than a right.

My last wave was a left and I kicked out after pumping just before it closed out.

I decided to go in so I wouldn't get roasted.

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