I was jonesing to surf.
The 2' swell wasn't going to stop me.
The early morning timing of the depths of the low tide wasn't going to slow me down.
I thought about bringing the Tomo and while driving down cursed my decision to bring the Merrick, but then I remembered how low the tide was going to be.
I got there, parked the car, walked the walk, and it looked flat. Down the beach I saw some spinning with steep sections and disgusting doomsday sections.
The wind was a beautiful light offshore. I fantasized about the perfection present had the swell doubled in size and the tide been a foot higher. I had to stop when I felt my boardshorts getting tight.
There were many waves caught and "ridden". I had a bunch of dicey airdrops. Some made, some "made". The rights were gross because of the just-risen sun's glare subtracting a clear view from the equation. I caught one and thought I had it in the bag while in the air. I slammed really hard into the water after having pearled.
I did luck into a few corners. I was so focused on making the drops and initial sections or catching up to the green water that I was too sideways to make anything.
A questionably late left came. I went. I went under and smacked my elbow HARD into the sand, thankfully cushioned by a slab of just-above-the-knee depth of liquid salvation.
I kept getting shuttled west where it was even less makeable. I don't remember what happened on the wave but when I came up my head and fin met and I was left with a painful contusion.
I left the water on two occasions to walk back up the beach; from unmakeable to barely makeable.
This was the worst session I've had since moving here and it was ironically the most crowded I've had at the beachbreak. The good news is I gave up zero waves to others because the closeouts were splitting the peaks so effectively.
The 2' swell wasn't going to stop me.
The early morning timing of the depths of the low tide wasn't going to slow me down.
I thought about bringing the Tomo and while driving down cursed my decision to bring the Merrick, but then I remembered how low the tide was going to be.
I got there, parked the car, walked the walk, and it looked flat. Down the beach I saw some spinning with steep sections and disgusting doomsday sections.
The wind was a beautiful light offshore. I fantasized about the perfection present had the swell doubled in size and the tide been a foot higher. I had to stop when I felt my boardshorts getting tight.
There were many waves caught and "ridden". I had a bunch of dicey airdrops. Some made, some "made". The rights were gross because of the just-risen sun's glare subtracting a clear view from the equation. I caught one and thought I had it in the bag while in the air. I slammed really hard into the water after having pearled.
I did luck into a few corners. I was so focused on making the drops and initial sections or catching up to the green water that I was too sideways to make anything.
A questionably late left came. I went. I went under and smacked my elbow HARD into the sand, thankfully cushioned by a slab of just-above-the-knee depth of liquid salvation.
I kept getting shuttled west where it was even less makeable. I don't remember what happened on the wave but when I came up my head and fin met and I was left with a painful contusion.
I left the water on two occasions to walk back up the beach; from unmakeable to barely makeable.
This was the worst session I've had since moving here and it was ironically the most crowded I've had at the beachbreak. The good news is I gave up zero waves to others because the closeouts were splitting the peaks so effectively.
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