This morning I awoke at 345 and made the decision to get up as I just didn't think I would fall back asleep.
I was going back and forth as to whether I would surf today. Tomorrow's forecast looked very slightly better. I happened to see that the wave period (the amount of time between troughs in a set) was 16 seconds. The longer this is, the more powerful the waves are.
When it's really macking, it's 18+ seconds, so 16 meant that while the swell itself was still small, it was coming with ferocity. Since tomorrow's forecast foretold of a 2-second haircut on the wave period, I decided to strike today.
Because I would be out during the apex of the high tide, I decided to take the Tomo down in what would be a fateful decision. I envisioned fat waves and possibly some reforms leading to some lazy walls and fun bonks.
My first glance was at the point break. I was shocked at what appeared to be a shoulder-high set wave rifling down the point. A subconscious pang of regret percolated over my board choice. Oh well, I was going to have to make it work.
I 'screened up and power-walked to the point. No other similar waves came and the tide was only going to get higher. So I convinced myself the beach break would be better and beat feet in that direction.
The surf at the beach break was dumping despite there being a lot of water out there. The Tomo hadn't touched water since Nicaragua and it took a bit to get used to paddling it again.
My first was a right. It was a late drop but nothing too bad, although the Tomo (and its lack of nose rocker/general rocker) sure makes it seem that way! I got a mini-pump in and a small bonk to finish.
I had a really late drop on a left. I thought I was going down and the nose went under before I rescued it.
The high tide did affect the waves so they would mostly blast down on the sandbar that's just outside the shorebreak. I had to adjust my strategy so as to not paddle too much once I'd found a wave. Doing so would put me in the drop-straight-down spot. Once I shifted to this I was able to find my rhythm.
I had two waves in a row with big finishes. One was an abortion of a layback snap, and the other was more of a miscarriage of one, as I came slightly closer to pulling it.
The tide and swell changes were starting to be noticeable. I caught a left and the oncoming section was five or so feet in front of the wave I'd caught. I stomped down after a mini-pump, swooped around and up and got a nice satisfying off-the-lip.
I paddled out as a couple of foreign-looking dudes paddled out. I let the slight current drift me down a bit so as not to break my streak of not having to let go of a wave due to someone already on it.
And that's when it happened.
I caught a wave and it was one of those that was a slight double-up. The wave behind it caught up and I didn't notice until it was too late. I was on trajectory for a second pump and noticed the thing foaming over and threatening to snap shut. I kicked my board out and got picked up and absolutely slammed onto my back into the sand, so hard that I felt it in my chest.
I gathered my thoughts, emotions, and the remnants of my ego and paddled back out. I caught a similar wave but this time I spotted it and kicked out, doing a fading carving 180 while doing so.
Another similar but smaller wave came. I pumped crazily along the top of the wave and tried to do an air but I didn't swoop enough on my set-up and just skipped out along the top of the wave.
The tide and swell angle conspired to make the waves crappy and I decided to pack it in. I was curious to see what the point was doing and since it was on the way to where I'd parked, I walked that way.
I was going back and forth as to whether I would surf today. Tomorrow's forecast looked very slightly better. I happened to see that the wave period (the amount of time between troughs in a set) was 16 seconds. The longer this is, the more powerful the waves are.
When it's really macking, it's 18+ seconds, so 16 meant that while the swell itself was still small, it was coming with ferocity. Since tomorrow's forecast foretold of a 2-second haircut on the wave period, I decided to strike today.
Because I would be out during the apex of the high tide, I decided to take the Tomo down in what would be a fateful decision. I envisioned fat waves and possibly some reforms leading to some lazy walls and fun bonks.
My first glance was at the point break. I was shocked at what appeared to be a shoulder-high set wave rifling down the point. A subconscious pang of regret percolated over my board choice. Oh well, I was going to have to make it work.
I 'screened up and power-walked to the point. No other similar waves came and the tide was only going to get higher. So I convinced myself the beach break would be better and beat feet in that direction.
The surf at the beach break was dumping despite there being a lot of water out there. The Tomo hadn't touched water since Nicaragua and it took a bit to get used to paddling it again.
My first was a right. It was a late drop but nothing too bad, although the Tomo (and its lack of nose rocker/general rocker) sure makes it seem that way! I got a mini-pump in and a small bonk to finish.
I had a really late drop on a left. I thought I was going down and the nose went under before I rescued it.
The high tide did affect the waves so they would mostly blast down on the sandbar that's just outside the shorebreak. I had to adjust my strategy so as to not paddle too much once I'd found a wave. Doing so would put me in the drop-straight-down spot. Once I shifted to this I was able to find my rhythm.
I had two waves in a row with big finishes. One was an abortion of a layback snap, and the other was more of a miscarriage of one, as I came slightly closer to pulling it.
The tide and swell changes were starting to be noticeable. I caught a left and the oncoming section was five or so feet in front of the wave I'd caught. I stomped down after a mini-pump, swooped around and up and got a nice satisfying off-the-lip.
I paddled out as a couple of foreign-looking dudes paddled out. I let the slight current drift me down a bit so as not to break my streak of not having to let go of a wave due to someone already on it.
And that's when it happened.
I caught a wave and it was one of those that was a slight double-up. The wave behind it caught up and I didn't notice until it was too late. I was on trajectory for a second pump and noticed the thing foaming over and threatening to snap shut. I kicked my board out and got picked up and absolutely slammed onto my back into the sand, so hard that I felt it in my chest.
I gathered my thoughts, emotions, and the remnants of my ego and paddled back out. I caught a similar wave but this time I spotted it and kicked out, doing a fading carving 180 while doing so.
Another similar but smaller wave came. I pumped crazily along the top of the wave and tried to do an air but I didn't swoop enough on my set-up and just skipped out along the top of the wave.
The tide and swell angle conspired to make the waves crappy and I decided to pack it in. I was curious to see what the point was doing and since it was on the way to where I'd parked, I walked that way.
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