... is a recipe for an exciting session. But when you add in this swell direction and size, you get a workout and not much more.
My belly rawness came back although more muted this time. So I decided to go in.
As I walked, I saw some possible rideable ones on the outside, known as El Barco, after the shipwreck for which this beach is named. I hemmed. I hawed. I thought, "I can't leave my faithful blog readers with this!".
"I can't leave the person or bot from Saudi Arabia who was for whatever reason responsible for 108 page views in one day hanging!"
"I can't let my three top referrers this week, cam show sites with girls who may not have been born girls down! The session must go on!".
So I put my sensitive tummy back on the board and rubbed it a little rawer for you, my beloved blog fans.
It was a waste of time as I got shuttled every which way except into non-close-out implosions.
I did see a SICK right throw over into a great barrel section. It didn't spit and ended up closing out but if you timed it right and got lucky you could make it. I paddled over there and for its next two of kin which combusted so hard they spit out of the back (up) and threw little piddles of sand!
I nailed all of my drops except the last one, on which I pussed out as the thing started dredging and I jumped for my life! There were no sections presented to me, I didn't even get to bottom turn!
I walked back to the car and checked the point. It looked better than it had at first light with some swell filling in. I went to the car and the wind turned true offshore. I debated paddling out at the point given it was empty and I'd likely get some sick ones if I was willing to wait an hour or two for the tide to fill in. On the other hand, inconsistent swell on a super low tide with a hard offshore isn't ideal. My raw belly was the tiebreaker and I drove back to the pad.
My belly rawness came back although more muted this time. So I decided to go in.
As I walked, I saw some possible rideable ones on the outside, known as El Barco, after the shipwreck for which this beach is named. I hemmed. I hawed. I thought, "I can't leave my faithful blog readers with this!".
"I can't leave the person or bot from Saudi Arabia who was for whatever reason responsible for 108 page views in one day hanging!"
"I can't let my three top referrers this week, cam show sites with girls who may not have been born girls down! The session must go on!".
So I put my sensitive tummy back on the board and rubbed it a little rawer for you, my beloved blog fans.
It was a waste of time as I got shuttled every which way except into non-close-out implosions.
I did see a SICK right throw over into a great barrel section. It didn't spit and ended up closing out but if you timed it right and got lucky you could make it. I paddled over there and for its next two of kin which combusted so hard they spit out of the back (up) and threw little piddles of sand!
I nailed all of my drops except the last one, on which I pussed out as the thing started dredging and I jumped for my life! There were no sections presented to me, I didn't even get to bottom turn!
I walked back to the car and checked the point. It looked better than it had at first light with some swell filling in. I went to the car and the wind turned true offshore. I debated paddling out at the point given it was empty and I'd likely get some sick ones if I was willing to wait an hour or two for the tide to fill in. On the other hand, inconsistent swell on a super low tide with a hard offshore isn't ideal. My raw belly was the tiebreaker and I drove back to the pad.
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