The waves had dropped and I considered taking my Tomo out for a spin. A gust of wind convinced me otherwise. Stringerless boards are in general less flexible and forgiving in chop, and there was a fair chance I'd be dealing with a fair amount of this today.
I walked all the way down to Playa Colorado. There wasn't much out there, but there was something. I paddled a little bit away from the crowd and within ten minutes I was rewarded with my best wave there in a while. It was m a y b e chest high. I managed to catch up to it with some deft pumping and harnessing all the speed pockets I could. I did a mini top-turn and then went for a floater but I didn't rotate my shoulders enough and I splayed back.
After a few closeouts I was over the worsening conditions and increasing chop. I hadn't put sunscreen on much of my body as I had my jacket. I didn't want to take it off halfway back and get roasted, so I decided to walk up the beach to Panga. There, I thought I would at least paddle out and re-wet the jacket so I wouldn't roast in that on the shorter walk back.
It was an eventful walk. The high tide had left some sand-encompassed pools of salt water. I was nonchalantly walking through them and I sank so fast on one step; it's the closest I've come to cartoon-style quicksand.
Then I spotted a dead fish. It wasn't small, but it wasn't big enough for a meal either. I figured there was a chance it would reanimate if placed back in the water but it was definitely dead. I wanted to give it a proper send-off in the ocean and maybe feed an ocean creature. This solidified my resolve to paddle out at Panga. As I waded out, I balanced it on the deck of my board. Once I was ready to start paddling I grabbed it by the tail and as I wound up and just started my throwing motion it slipped out of my hand. So fishy if your spirit is reading this, I'm sorry I didn't give you a good send-off into deepwater. May your purgatory at inside Panga be short and may you be consumed by a worthy being through which you will continue to live.
There were two dudes out in the now wind-whipped conditions. I paddled inside of them and stayed there for a few minutes, giving them a chance to snag waves before I got priority in the rotation. I then spotted a peak to the south. The paddle was rough, as many times I was paddling through rough troughs (did anyone catch the same word three times in a row?), rendering my efficiency terrible.
About ten minutes later, I paddled my ass off. I caught a wave and made it down, then had a quick panic that the wave was going to pass me by. I was able to squirt enough water through the tail and the wave linked up with the next peak down the line. It developed a wall and I gained speed. I nice foam coping formed and I went up and did a floater/rock-and-roll completing half the maneuver before the wind snatched the board away from me. If I'd kept more of my weight on my heels I would have been golden.
No other noteworthy waves came and I went in in my refreshingly wet jacket.
I walked all the way down to Playa Colorado. There wasn't much out there, but there was something. I paddled a little bit away from the crowd and within ten minutes I was rewarded with my best wave there in a while. It was m a y b e chest high. I managed to catch up to it with some deft pumping and harnessing all the speed pockets I could. I did a mini top-turn and then went for a floater but I didn't rotate my shoulders enough and I splayed back.
After a few closeouts I was over the worsening conditions and increasing chop. I hadn't put sunscreen on much of my body as I had my jacket. I didn't want to take it off halfway back and get roasted, so I decided to walk up the beach to Panga. There, I thought I would at least paddle out and re-wet the jacket so I wouldn't roast in that on the shorter walk back.
It was an eventful walk. The high tide had left some sand-encompassed pools of salt water. I was nonchalantly walking through them and I sank so fast on one step; it's the closest I've come to cartoon-style quicksand.
Then I spotted a dead fish. It wasn't small, but it wasn't big enough for a meal either. I figured there was a chance it would reanimate if placed back in the water but it was definitely dead. I wanted to give it a proper send-off in the ocean and maybe feed an ocean creature. This solidified my resolve to paddle out at Panga. As I waded out, I balanced it on the deck of my board. Once I was ready to start paddling I grabbed it by the tail and as I wound up and just started my throwing motion it slipped out of my hand. So fishy if your spirit is reading this, I'm sorry I didn't give you a good send-off into deepwater. May your purgatory at inside Panga be short and may you be consumed by a worthy being through which you will continue to live.
There were two dudes out in the now wind-whipped conditions. I paddled inside of them and stayed there for a few minutes, giving them a chance to snag waves before I got priority in the rotation. I then spotted a peak to the south. The paddle was rough, as many times I was paddling through rough troughs (did anyone catch the same word three times in a row?), rendering my efficiency terrible.
About ten minutes later, I paddled my ass off. I caught a wave and made it down, then had a quick panic that the wave was going to pass me by. I was able to squirt enough water through the tail and the wave linked up with the next peak down the line. It developed a wall and I gained speed. I nice foam coping formed and I went up and did a floater/rock-and-roll completing half the maneuver before the wind snatched the board away from me. If I'd kept more of my weight on my heels I would have been golden.
No other noteworthy waves came and I went in in my refreshingly wet jacket.
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