I'd intended on surfing yesterday afternoon, then today around midday/mid-tide but daddy duty kept getting in the way. I was finally granted a reprieve and so I took the long walk down to PC.
I knew it was going to be big. I've seen PC around this size once before. There were a lot of closeouts but every eight waves or so there would be a corner on which you could try to tuck into a no-way-out barrel or attempt a losing battle with a fast lip.
On my first wave, I experienced the latter and I kicked my board up and out.
My next wave was a right, and probably my best wave. I half-pumped, half-bottom turned a couple of times and really close to the gaping maw of this fierce lip. After this exchange I kicked my board up, conceding defeat. While underwater, I wondered if I could've gotten in the barrel. Yes, but not for long (considering I couldn't keep up with the wave with way more room than I'd have had in the pit.
I was told to go on a big meaty left which I thought was going to close out. It was nasty looking but go means go and go I went. It opened up ever so slightly and I laid into a bottom turn but aborted and jumped over my frontside rail as the booming foam and I became one.
It seems the hopeless closeout count has remained the same. This is the first big swell and maybe after it is done the sand will have shifted into a more amenable shape so as to provide us some nuggets.
I knew it was going to be big. I've seen PC around this size once before. There were a lot of closeouts but every eight waves or so there would be a corner on which you could try to tuck into a no-way-out barrel or attempt a losing battle with a fast lip.
On my first wave, I experienced the latter and I kicked my board up and out.
My next wave was a right, and probably my best wave. I half-pumped, half-bottom turned a couple of times and really close to the gaping maw of this fierce lip. After this exchange I kicked my board up, conceding defeat. While underwater, I wondered if I could've gotten in the barrel. Yes, but not for long (considering I couldn't keep up with the wave with way more room than I'd have had in the pit.
I was told to go on a big meaty left which I thought was going to close out. It was nasty looking but go means go and go I went. It opened up ever so slightly and I laid into a bottom turn but aborted and jumped over my frontside rail as the booming foam and I became one.
It seems the hopeless closeout count has remained the same. This is the first big swell and maybe after it is done the sand will have shifted into a more amenable shape so as to provide us some nuggets.
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