I didn't see anything in the in the form of wave action as my walk was reaching its ending; a bad sign. I was eventually comforted by the sight of a closeout 😏.
I put on my jacket and did some light stretching while I drank in the conditions. The main peak seemed to be closing out, but the corners of these seemed to be holding up every so often. The idea of veering away from the pack and picking off what was there after the unmakeable section inevitably folded over was titillating.
Well, the first and second waves were close-outs. The second of these I got hung up on the lip and hit the eject button, breaking the water's surface with my elbow so as to sink more efficiently into it.
My third wave was a little screamer and I caught up with it. I hadn't been presented with a forehand section in weeks and I while I did look down I didn't rotate my head and shoulders. Granted, the section was super steep and drainy as it was pretty far on the inside.
I had some work to do and so I bailed not long thereafter.
I put on my jacket and did some light stretching while I drank in the conditions. The main peak seemed to be closing out, but the corners of these seemed to be holding up every so often. The idea of veering away from the pack and picking off what was there after the unmakeable section inevitably folded over was titillating.
Well, the first and second waves were close-outs. The second of these I got hung up on the lip and hit the eject button, breaking the water's surface with my elbow so as to sink more efficiently into it.
My third wave was a little screamer and I caught up with it. I hadn't been presented with a forehand section in weeks and I while I did look down I didn't rotate my head and shoulders. Granted, the section was super steep and drainy as it was pretty far on the inside.
I had some work to do and so I bailed not long thereafter.
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