I didn't get to surf this morning, and I checked the swell report and it claimed we were at 4-6'. I found a window during which my wife would be ok being alone with the baby.
It was so hot, that there was no question I'd be trunking it. I walked down barefoot and paddled out JUST north of the blackball flag and watched as a sea of swimmers were being herded towards the blackball and away from the red flag, where they're not allowed.
The waves were almost empty, an amazing feat considering it's a holiday weekend with really warm beach weather. Considering the sheer number of bodies in the sand it was even more unbelievable.
I caught a couple of waves, one of which teased me by opening up slightly before slamming shut.
The two lefts sped me along the longshore express towards the pier. When I got there I stayed there for the rest of the session.
The waves began to get bigger and I was excited, but it was difficult to enjoy the occasion as there was so much water moving around. I had to paddle quite a bit to keep from being wrapped up in people's translucent fishing lines, then watch for a bomb set to come through while hoping I don't get too close to the pier while fighting the underwater turbulence.
The highlight of my session is the nastiest pearl I've undertaken (*SNORT*) since Lord knows when...
I paddled for a wave that turned out to be neither a right nor a left. I was late on it. I decided to go because I was sick of the monotony of paddling. I got hung up on the lip, but I stepped on the gas by slamming my weight onto my front foot. I airdropped and fell so fast and so hard that I didn't realize what had happened until I was underwater. I literally fell faster than the speed of thought. I was lucky that my board didn't slam into me. I hit the bottom, but nothing too bad. I came up after about eight seconds, gathered my board and paddled back out.
My last wave was a smaller, slightly more defined version of the previous wave. It was a big right. I took it and was content to go in and avoid the gauntlet.
When I got home I found out Raquel had been cooking dinner and doing laundry while watching the baby. It's almost as if she knew I would mention it in the blog...
It was so hot, that there was no question I'd be trunking it. I walked down barefoot and paddled out JUST north of the blackball flag and watched as a sea of swimmers were being herded towards the blackball and away from the red flag, where they're not allowed.
The waves were almost empty, an amazing feat considering it's a holiday weekend with really warm beach weather. Considering the sheer number of bodies in the sand it was even more unbelievable.
I caught a couple of waves, one of which teased me by opening up slightly before slamming shut.
The two lefts sped me along the longshore express towards the pier. When I got there I stayed there for the rest of the session.
The waves began to get bigger and I was excited, but it was difficult to enjoy the occasion as there was so much water moving around. I had to paddle quite a bit to keep from being wrapped up in people's translucent fishing lines, then watch for a bomb set to come through while hoping I don't get too close to the pier while fighting the underwater turbulence.
The highlight of my session is the nastiest pearl I've undertaken (*SNORT*) since Lord knows when...
I paddled for a wave that turned out to be neither a right nor a left. I was late on it. I decided to go because I was sick of the monotony of paddling. I got hung up on the lip, but I stepped on the gas by slamming my weight onto my front foot. I airdropped and fell so fast and so hard that I didn't realize what had happened until I was underwater. I literally fell faster than the speed of thought. I was lucky that my board didn't slam into me. I hit the bottom, but nothing too bad. I came up after about eight seconds, gathered my board and paddled back out.
My last wave was a smaller, slightly more defined version of the previous wave. It was a big right. I took it and was content to go in and avoid the gauntlet.
When I got home I found out Raquel had been cooking dinner and doing laundry while watching the baby. It's almost as if she knew I would mention it in the blog...
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