I hadn't surfed in a few days, and while I knew the tide would be at the absolute lowest for my session, news of the fortified swell made me pedal my bike down to the beach.
The first snafu came when I duckdived and immediately hit sand. My hands felt the sharp sting of an unsanded epoxy repair job. A quick examination revealed red lines which I thought were cuts, but apparently I'd only cut through the first layer of the skin.
I took a closeout on the head shortly thereafter and was amazed at the power in these 4-footers.
All waves were closeouts. I managed a half-pump on one which heaved over into an unmakeable barrel and sent me tumbling.
The first snafu came when I duckdived and immediately hit sand. My hands felt the sharp sting of an unsanded epoxy repair job. A quick examination revealed red lines which I thought were cuts, but apparently I'd only cut through the first layer of the skin.
I took a closeout on the head shortly thereafter and was amazed at the power in these 4-footers.
All waves were closeouts. I managed a half-pump on one which heaved over into an unmakeable barrel and sent me tumbling.
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