The waves were small, about waist- to chest-high, but they were CLEAN! I was salivating at the session that lay before me.
For a major holiday, it was a ghost town. I perched and caught the first few waves without anyone near me. That soon changed, and by the time I left the water the waves had exceeded critical mass.
I caught my usual couple of no-way-out closeouts, but I got a good luck at a left with a corner. I pumped a couple of times and as I was towards the waning stages of my bottom turn the lip surprised me by arriving early. I was able to get on top of it but could not convert.
Since the tide was so low, a lot of the inside waves were closing out, but not before providing an oasis for the eyes. If you squinted, cocked your head just right, and suspended disbelief, you could talk yourself into thinking you could get tubed and doggy-door out of it.
I caught a left and switch crab-grabbed. A rush of water smacked me in the face, but I was still in, I was about to open my eyes when another rush of water followed, and that was the end of it. It felt like I had some room in there but there was no way for me to tell if the lip had long ago left me behind.
The highlight of the session was the lone right I caught, which is interesting giving the severity of the angle of the S swell and its penchant to crank out higher quality lefts than rights. I dropped in and my footing was a bit off, I was too far starboard. I bottom turned and hit a section late, so late that it was capping off in front of me. I banked off the lip and section that was just breaking and threw a nice flume of spray. I descended again but in my enthusiasm to do it again, I came up too quickly and my off-balance footing couldn't take it.
I went in shortly thereafter.
For a major holiday, it was a ghost town. I perched and caught the first few waves without anyone near me. That soon changed, and by the time I left the water the waves had exceeded critical mass.
I caught my usual couple of no-way-out closeouts, but I got a good luck at a left with a corner. I pumped a couple of times and as I was towards the waning stages of my bottom turn the lip surprised me by arriving early. I was able to get on top of it but could not convert.
Since the tide was so low, a lot of the inside waves were closing out, but not before providing an oasis for the eyes. If you squinted, cocked your head just right, and suspended disbelief, you could talk yourself into thinking you could get tubed and doggy-door out of it.
I caught a left and switch crab-grabbed. A rush of water smacked me in the face, but I was still in, I was about to open my eyes when another rush of water followed, and that was the end of it. It felt like I had some room in there but there was no way for me to tell if the lip had long ago left me behind.
The highlight of the session was the lone right I caught, which is interesting giving the severity of the angle of the S swell and its penchant to crank out higher quality lefts than rights. I dropped in and my footing was a bit off, I was too far starboard. I bottom turned and hit a section late, so late that it was capping off in front of me. I banked off the lip and section that was just breaking and threw a nice flume of spray. I descended again but in my enthusiasm to do it again, I came up too quickly and my off-balance footing couldn't take it.
I went in shortly thereafter.
No comments:
Post a Comment