I wanted to give the DHD a chance to dry out before I attacked the dings, so I dusted off a board I've surfed only twice before: a thicker, wider board shaped by my neighbor in Cardiff.
The change in floatation was immediately noticeable, but my duckdiving depth didn't suffer too much.
My first wave was one on which I had trouble getting going. I think the relative lack of nose rocker was to blame. When I finally did descend onto the flats, I was off-balance. My last view of the wave from this side dampened my disappointment as I watched it fold into a big closeout.
I had one more wave similar to the above, then I caught my last memorable wave. I pumped a couple of times and did an ok hit WHICH I MADE!!!111!!
There were a few cannonballs peppered in, where I got stuck in the lip like yesterday and had to eject away from my board.