Help Support The Blog by Clicking Through to

Thursday, July 25, 2013

7.2.13 D St Sesh w/ Ali

The waves were supposed to be pretty small today, but we were pleasantly surprised by what greeted us.  They looked to be chest-high on the sets. Out thar!

I caught a left almost immediately, and got a couple of pumps in before it shut down on me.  I kicked my board out and sank into the water.

My next wave had a critical take-off and I responding by tucking into a switch crab grab.  The footy captured a lot of water moving around.  Since it's been so long since I experienced the ride, I will assume it was a quick fall.

After a long lull, I finally got a look at my next wave, which was yet another left.  I had a slight look at a corner, but it turned out to be a mirage.  The wave exploded all at once when I was halfway down the wave.

Eight minutes later I caught a wave that was neither a left nor a right, as I just went straight.  Another closeout...

The swell appeared to be dwindling, as my next wave, although not a closeout, mushed out almost immediately.

Ali had to go in to get to work.  I had no reason to stay, thanks to the poor showing by the surf and went back up the cliff with her.

No comments:

Post a Comment