The waves were supposed to be pretty small today, but we were pleasantly surprised by what greeted us. They looked to be chest-high on the sets. Out thar!
I caught a left almost immediately, and got a couple of pumps in before it shut down on me. I kicked my board out and sank into the water.
My next wave had a critical take-off and I responding by tucking into a switch crab grab. The footy captured a lot of water moving around. Since it's been so long since I experienced the ride, I will assume it was a quick fall.
After a long lull, I finally got a look at my next wave, which was yet another left. I had a slight look at a corner, but it turned out to be a mirage. The wave exploded all at once when I was halfway down the wave.
Eight minutes later I caught a wave that was neither a left nor a right, as I just went straight. Another closeout...
The swell appeared to be dwindling, as my next wave, although not a closeout, mushed out almost immediately.
Ali had to go in to get to work. I had no reason to stay, thanks to the poor showing by the surf and went back up the cliff with her.