Forrest met his now-girlfriend Angie and has been MIA since, surfing-wise. The guy's been a ghost. I hadn't heard from him. Have you heard from him? NOBODY's heard from him!
Today he called me to see if I wanted to eat lunch with him and I told him I'd just had lunch. He told me to come watch him eat and I agreed upon the condition that he buy me an horchata. He agreed. I then asked if he wanted to surf. He asked how it was and I said, "Terrible". He left his pad to come get me and I grabbed my fish.
Forrest's knee has been giving him issues, so he decided he would be sponging it today. He hadn't been in the ocean in quite some time, so a sponge was better than no dip at all.
We decided on Seascape, a wave we used to surf all of the time about thirteen years ago but had since been relegated to our dustbin of surf history. Today, we resuscitated it and HARD.
We didn't bother checking the waves. When we got within eyeshot of the waves, Forrest let out a telltale groan. I was thrilled to see waves, and some were sort of lining up! YEEEEEEEEEEEH!
The paddle-out wasn't too bad, but the second dip swept me awash in the agony that is the ice cream headache. Luckily, I only had one more progressively worse instance to endure before reaching my perch spot.
My first wave was a quick left on which I kicked out almost immediately.
Forrest was bobbing about on the Costco-bought sponge and he said the waves look way bigger prone. He mentioned being colder than usual, likely because more of his body was in the water. I asked him if he wanted to switch boards and he replied negatively.
Forrest caught a wave, and I was alone. A left came, and I was convinced it would close out. I went anyway, hoping the chop on the face would slow its demise. I bottom-turned up to the top, pumped hard down, then back up. I was going pretty fast, but I was on a section that was about vertical on a board with no rocker. It looked as though I would not be victorious, but I proved triumphant, zooming down the face. I saw a little section approach and went up hard, slamming my weight onto my front foot so I could do a 360. The fins washed out oh-so-slightly, but my momentum caused me to fly off. I came up, amped on making that pump and milking as much speed as I could out of that beast.
A couple more forgettable waves came and went, and one took Forrest's boogie board with it. Forrest swam all the way in to fetch it, then came back out.
During his absence, I caught a big left. I was continuing my pumping regime when I caught a glimpse of the sketchy, frothy section coming up to meet me looked like it had some teeth. By the time I'd spotted it, I had no time to react and it gobbled up the nose of my board, I freefell all of four feet into the trough, then got picked up and slammed over the falls again. I took a bit of a beating, but not as bad as it could've been...
A right came, and I was on it. There was not much to it though, so I Fosbury flopped over it.
I caught one of the biggest waves of the day. I was reluctant to go because of my board choice, but I pushed on. By the time it got to me, it was steep and nasty. I dropped down and the frontside edge of my nose bit in just a tad, altering my trajectory and throwing me off balance. I ended up doing an abrupt hairpin turn up and over the face without descending all the way. That one must have looked interesting from the beach!
No other memorable waves came. Many party waves were attempted, but Forrest was limited by his lack of foam, so we only got one...