Mike and I both got there a little early. It wasn't as consistent as yesterday and the coconut wireless must've been off the Richter yesterday as the crowd had "swelled" (*snort*). Mike and I suited up and paddled out south of the glut to try our luck there.
The first wave was a quick left that I off-the-topped. My trailing hand was dragging in the water and that was giving me some help, but it was not to be as I never recovered.
I caught another left on which I had to pump like a muphugga. On my third pump, I was a bit off-balance and faded a little to the right. I never was able to reap my reward and dove into the whitewash.
Another left came, this time a small one, and I pumped twice before electing to fade off the back. The wave was very helpful in aiding me at arriving at this decision.
Ah, my next wave. It was GLORIOUS! Unfortunately, I was the breakout on an otherwise flawless face. I pumped well and was able to keep pace with it, thanks to a SuperPump that took from almost the top of the wave to the bottom. However, I had a hard time reading the wave and was in an awkward spot. I was primed to bank off the top for a smooth Rob Machado style floater but the lip inside of my targeted spot surprised me by peaking early and tossing me on to my ass.
I caught another left and pumped forever until the end section presented itself and I smacked it. I, you're never going to believe this, couldn't hang on and succumbed to the forces of gravity and mediocrity.
Another left came and it was slow at first, cutting my set-up pump short. It hollowed out quickly and I smacked it to no avail.
Yes, another left! This one was hollower and faster right away, but when I turned, I did so too critically. A flatter approach would've resulted in a better outcome. The good news, I suppose, is I now have turned too radically for a wave.
The last left of the morning came and it went nowhere. I meekly pumped to see if it would develop. It didn't.
I caught the first right of the morning and my last wave of the day but it too disappointed me.