I wasn't expecting much today. I expected rough seas like yesterday's, thanks to the overnight onshores. The swell was supposed to be dwindling to waist-high territory. I went anyways because I was jonesing.
D Street wasn't all that crowded and even better, about HEAD HIGH on the sets! Out thar!
My first wave of the morning was a left on which I nearly blew it. My left hand slipped off my wax job. I was able to recover, but I lost out on a little speed. The good news is the wave was steep enough that I still got an ok amount. I parlayed that into a good hit, but I extended my legs too far, taking my weight off my board and costing me a sweet finish to a bad start. It was bookend bad.
I caught another left and went for a roundhouse cutty attempt. I set up better than last time, and the results show it. BUT it was still a no-make. I will keep at it though and hope to show you a solid make before I leave next week.
I caught a right which got racey quickly. I pumped a few times, when I finally noticed I didn't have anywhere to go, I tried for a cutty but it would have been a tough make for the vast majority of the surfing population. It was a valiant effort though! You can see my front foot staying strong even after the lip knocks the camera back.
After this wave I managed to injure my left hand. While underwater, I noticed my hand had slipped in to my folded over leash. This is never a good thing, so I hastily yanked to get it out of there. I didn't do it quickly enough, and the leash pulled tight. My hand is still sore, but it should be fine for tomorrow's session.
I caught another left which fizzled a bit. I am very front-foot heavy while pumping, as are most surfers, and my back foot lifted off my board. I recovered well, went for a standard way-back snap, but didn't recover.
I caught a right and it looked good. I pumped a couple of times, but it shut down. I straightened out and went for an impossible foam climb.
The kelp beds were finally overwhelmed and their efforts to keep the wind chop down slowly succumbed to the steady onshore that came up at about eight-thirty. I succumbed too and went in.